Friday 11 March 2011

Terrain: How to keep cool in industry Part I I

Bear with me. I did a lot of this some weeks ago, but was unable to write it up in a timely fashion.

To recap, having glued the strips of plasticard to the corners, the piece looks about like this.

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I curved the strips round the corners and glued them in place. Because of the curving, you will either have to hold these things in place forever or do the sensible thing: weigh them down and go do something else for a few hours.

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Once that is done, glue a few things onto the sides to suggest an industrial appearance. It should look like this. It's tempting to overdo these things and cover the whole side in detail. I find this is only making work for oneself.

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I undercoated the piece with Halford's yellow primer, then applied a coat of red oxide paint. I wanted to give the impression of peeling paint, so I used a technique I have seen widely suggested. Once the coat of red oxide was dry, I took a Brillo pad and smeared toothpaste on it. I then dabbed that all over the coat of red oxide. To ensure a good contrast with the red, I chose a light colour of paint. It's fairly lightly and messily applied as you can see, which is in part because I wanted to suggest wear and tear, and in part because I was in no mood to be stood around applying layers of paint! Once the paint was applied, and had dried, I used the brillo pad to scrape off the paint which had adhered to the toothpaste. The instructions I've seen suggest removing the paint within a few hours, but in my case I think it was a day or so! It looked like this.

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I then applied a layer of gloss varnish, and then a few transfers to give some grounding to the piece, and to fill in the large blank spaces. I used Micro Sol (or was it Set?) to ensure they fixed securely to the varnished surface. Once they were dry. I used a pin and the Brillo pad (again) to worry the transfers. Having done so I applied another coat of varnish to seal the transfers in. I applied a layer of black paint to the interior, but did not want to risk it marking the exterior.

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The most part of the work done, I then set to painting and further weathering the piece. I shall cover that in Part III.

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